Give it more time … WATCO is a very thin finish … no where near as thick as a brushed on, full strength poly. -- - dabbling in sarcasm is foolish … if you’re not proficient at it, you end up looking stupid … ... ... did you mention give it more time? Next day, denib with 320 and rub with 000 steel wool. Ensure wood is dry and free from subsurface moisture before applying Tung Oil … tightly closed environment, it will dry, eventually, but it will take forever. I think they were bought out by the same company that owns Min-wax and they actually disappeared for a while. The only advice I have to question in the previous responses would be that, in one comment, you are advised to add more WATCO in order to take advantage of the solvents contained therein to soften or reamalgamate the uncured finish you are dealing with … yet in another, you are cautioned against using a solvent to attempt removal of the excess WATCO. Model WR TUNG OIL QUART WoodRiver - Tung Oil Natural Quart. Or do I reapply the oils a few more times? Teak and Danish oil was apply heavy, let soak for 1/2 hour, making sure it didn't have any dry spots. It shouldnt smell like varnish if its dry. Watco contains raw linseed oil. Not sure what the solvent for Watco is, off the top of my head. Unless the label says 100% tung oil, you really don’t know what’s in the can/bottle. Item 146955. Watco "tung oil" finish contains no tung oil. ©2020 Verticalscope Inc. All Rights Reserved. I am just starting with tung oil, doing many light coats. But be prepared. If there's any figuring or burl in the wood, it will definitely pop beautifully. The heat does two things: it kills the bacteria so that decomposition doesn’t occur and also essentially “polymerizes” it so that it will cure. Watco contains raw linseed oil. Going to let dry overnight and repeat 2 more times without thinning. It was my sole stain product before that but I tried it once after they came back to life and I knew something was different. Its main advantage is that it can be wiped on without requiring a spray rig and without leaving brush marks. Watco Danish Oil Raw linseed oil simply leaves a … 4.17 out of 5 stars (6) Add to Cart. Compare. I applied 3 or 4 coats and it was not shiny (the sanding may have had a lot to do with that). Watco Teak Oil I used two pieces for each oil, as I plan on showing them to him oil only and oil with a lacquer topcoat. Somehow I think you’ll end up not happy if you touch it with sandpaper. He didn't know what he wanted so I got a bunch of them: This will deaden slightly after 30 days or so. My only wierd experience was just as rockindavan says, and it was on my workbench for it’s annual re-apply of Watco’s. Looking for information on designing your projects? I’m wiping over time and staying patient from this point in my use of Watco’s. If your workpiece is small enough, place it in a … Wet surfaces with WATCO Danish Oil. Applied 2 coats of Watco Tung oil (waited 24 hours between coats and wiped off excess after 15 minutes each time).Probably about 40-48 hours have passed since applying second coat Applied denatured alcohol on it (Watco guy said it … A day after I applied, it was kinda tacky. There are people who post videos to the internet and make it appear as if Waterlox is easy to apply with a foam brush, but you'll get results that are about on the level of what you would expect from a painting contractor. From contributor D: At the same time, you will have put another layer of protection, granted a thin one, on your work piece by using a shellac barrier coat. And as I recall, the best way to get rid of the “tacky” was a fresh coat of the product wiped off immediately (it was it’s own solvent). It will dry eventually, but it will take a bit longer than you probably anticipated. If poly will dry & cure fully, your WATCO most certainly will also. That’s routine with varnish. I think last time I used Watco (in the winter down in the South), I was allowing at least 1 hour of dry time and then one full night’s set up before applying a wipe-on poly on it. This forum is for all the woodturners out there. DONT. Having difficulties reading project plans? Most of the “tung oil finish” products on the market are actually thinned varnishes that contain little or no tung oil at all. WATCO® Tung Oil Finish will quickly and easily restore and enhance the natural color and warmth of wood in only a few steps. Peter, what a previous poster has said is a good thought too. I sanded in each coat (walnut) using 1000-2000 grit sandpaper. You'll close the pores a little with the steel wool, so thin the first coat of Waterlox Original Sealer with about 25% mineral spirits for good penetration. Questions and answers about CNC machines, tooling, best practices, and projects. One of the issues with “oil/varnish” blends is, if in fact the finish DOES contain oil, whether the oil dries thoroughly. Linseed oil on its own is normally purchased as boiled linseed oil. Watco Danish Oil and tung oil are two types of wood-finishing oil with distinctly different properties. Terms of Service It used to require a minimum of 8 hours before a top finish meaning it takes some time to set-up. just an “aside”...if you don’t plan on a poly top-coat, I am a big fan of Johnson paste wax…when I think I have totally cleaned off all stain residue, a few coats of that stuff will yield a rag that tells me I was wrong. Use a fan and check after a few hours. Wipe it down with naptha. -- Pete, Long Beach, CA http://www.petedeeblefurniture.com. Raw linseed oil simply leaves a … Attempting to remove an uncured finish WILL be something you don’t ever want to attempt. I use teak oil but there are a bunch out there. Latest Blog Entries | 5.0 out of 5 stars (2) Add to Cart. Most of that will absorb into the wood after several minutes, but don't worry about wiping the excess off. Have you had to compromise your project... On the lathe, by the lathe: do you have questions? Before applying Watco Tung Oil Finish, remove all sanding dust and dirt with a vacuum, tack cloth, or rag dampened with mineral spirits. Clean the wood surface with a damp cloth. It may take a little practice but your customer will love the deep, rich grain of the walnut. Am I buffing the oil? Soak it again for 15 minutes and wipe dry. Eyes, ears, fingers, and... Are you looking for or do you have tips to share regarding the workshop? Wipe it down and see if the finish comes to the surface again. Using a jig is like having a couple extra hands helping out. If you don’t want a higher sheen I would use a purely oil finish. I followed the instructions on the container. If, for some reason, the last coat of Watco was in some way contaminated, didnt bind, etc, the shellac will seal the previous coats and it will be like starting over again with your next coat of varnish. Remove dust (you may not be able to see it, but there is loose sandpaper grit mixed with the dust which will interfere with subsequent operations.) you can speed up dry time by using a box fan to circulate air around your work piece. Looking for help with ... Are you unsure of which tools, or hardware, you need, or which brands to buy? That’ll make it dry. May take a while though Pete but it’ll save ya a lot of aggravation trying to “fix” the problem. To remove the tacky feel, the excess product must be removed. It would be reeeeeeal tricky to try to remove the undried topcoat and if Peter waits, he will likely have his finish dry just fine. The other 10% use processed tung oil instead of or with BLO. The next day you may find the build is thick enough, but if not, repeat day two again until you're satisfied with it. The first coat or two is largely absorbed into the wood so it feels dry, even if it’s not … additional coats tend to sit closer to the surface, on top of those first few penetrating coats, so they tend to act more like a poly than a penetrating finish, causing them to take longer to cure/dry. In this case it is simple … if you apply the finish and place the piece in a very small. WATCO FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS. In some cases I will apply paste wax and buff after about a week, however I would skip the wax on a coffee table that is going to see use. Is this simply because I’m failing to adequately wipe away the excess on each coat? BLO was thinned 50% with VM&P Naphtha and wiped on heavy let soak for 15 minutes and wiped dry. When you’re done, give the surface a few minutes to dry to the touch. I use Watco Danish oil to finish pretty much everything, and for the longest time I was only using one or two coats and loved the way it looked. Several sandings and coats can look and feel like a sprayed-on film finish. Water bornes are more finicky as we all know. you will know if the previous coats are dry if you simply sniff the piece. frustrations? That makes sense, but the can says that it’s ready for recoat in 30 minutes (I believe, I could be misremembering). Also, there’s no such thing as “teak oil.” The naturally occurring oleoresin in teak is never extracted. Enhances natural wood tone Will not darken with age Sometimes I will wet sand on the first or second coat with oil. Both oils can achieve the result of a finish on your woodwork, but maintenance and durability as well as the amount of time invested in finishing the item is one big difference between tung oil and Danish oil.